THE AUTHOR'S CHOICE
            Alle due corti(     0832 24 22 23; www.alleduecorti.com; 
            Corte dei Giugni 1; meals € 15-20). For a taste of the sunny 
            Salentina, this elegant yet laid-back restaurant stands out. The menu 
            is classical Puglian with plenty of fresh fruit, vegetables and home-made 
            pasta. It really is Mediterranean cooking at its simple best. Don't 
            worry if you don''t understand the menu (written in dialect, not Italian) 
            as the waiter explains everything. And if all else fails, ask for 
            whatever - it's all excellent.